First Trip-Hells Bay-Late Start, Big Wind and Cold Night

[Amazon Bill]

In June 2011, my powerboat membership expired and the water adventure blues immediately set in. Luckily while surfing the web, I found the EEN site, bought Johnny Malloy's book and set a bearing for Hells Bay by Jan 2012!  Max and I took our first canoe camping trip Jan 5th, 2012 and it was to Hells Bay on the coldest day of the year! Late to Flamingo and wind blowing 15+mph set the stage for ADVENTURE. Launching from Hells Trail at 11 am, we reached Hells Bay Chickee before 4pm. It was a bit strange in Hells Bay the way the wind, clouds and late sun blocked our view, but we came up to the site right on course. A 8x10 tarp made a nice wind wall on the chickee whcih helped keep our gear from blowing off! The temp dropped to the low 40's and made waking up a bit of a challenge. But canoeing allows for lots of GEAR! In the morning we cranked up the stove, had coffee, pancakes, and sausages.

 

We left and headed Roberts River at 11:00 am into the wind. ZigZaggging behind the islands to help block the wind. Max navigated with a waterproof chart and compass while I used aerial photos and GPS. He really picked up on our locations and developed a good sense of direction and place out there in the back country. A great skill to learn. It also gave him confidence and built a high level of interest in paddling. Taking a short cut just west of Lane Bay Chickee we entered the calm waters of Lane River. The tide was heading out and we covered some ground and took on some fishing. Max found the Maze on the chart and guided us through the Maze between Lane and Robert's Rivers. The aerial photos on the GPS really help me out. The Maze is a cool trail where we saw a gator, huge 3 ft long snapper turtle that went under the canoe, a bald eagle, Flamingos,and  two ospreys. Entering Roberts River, that northeast wind was booking right down the river. Time to zigzag again. The tide and wind were against us. It was a challenge but we made it to Roberts River Chickee by 3PM. We couldn't understand how we went that far, fishing, touring and against the wind. We set up and headed to the tri-rivers just across from the chickee. Those rivers look like they could lead a long way. Dinner was spaghetti, sausage and Some-Or'es. We kept the rain fly off that night, listened to NOAA forecast on the VHF, and plotted a series of cuts through north Hells Bay and North Pearl Bay which cut out a couple of miles.

Heading out to Pearl Bay on Day 3 a bit earlier 10 am. Setting sail with a make shift sail we made 3.5 mph down Roberts River, reaching Lane River in 70 minutes! We took a look 1.5 miles down to Whitewater Bay from the Lane River fork and realized just how big is the bay. That cancelled any idea to take the Bay to East River, so we headed back into Lane River. Good thing because we saw Ospreys, bald eagles, porpise crashing bait in the mangroves, caught half dozen ladyfish and a big sea trout. We passed a canoer who asked, "is the trail marked to Roberts River"...guess they made it. That was the first person we saw in two days. The first short cut was a kick. We headed across north Hells Bay right at the mangrove wall. Not seeing any cut to the left we were almost tempted to take the wrong cut to the right.  Max said, "just follow the compass and course." good thing as we almost reached the mangrove wall when the cut to the left opened up and we saw the trail. Reached Pearl Bay Chickee mid afternoon. Nice new chickee with a three stair walk up from the canoe and a shelf for a workspace. It was like the Hyatt of chickees. This was the 3rd night of having a double chickee to ourself. I took some laps around to get my legs loose. I never realized that in 4 days that I would not touch land or walk more than 50 feet in one direction. That night was 3/4 moon which lit the entire bay all night. Had some good tunes on the crank up radio, cooked somores again, searched the stars and moon with the binoculars, used the stove as a heater, and fished for what looked like a type of bream or cyclids with vertical stripes. The quiteness of Pearl Bay was amazing, the sound of coots splashing in the next pond over was easily heard.  Three nights and not bothered by any misquitos.

 

The trip back to Hells Trail was casual, we gained alot of experience and skill on the last three days. Tempature was reaching the 70's so we were shedding layers and drinking up our supplies.  Now Hells Trail has been named 'because it's Hell to get there and BACK".  The tide was dropping all afternoon and we fished and took our time.  Well as we got about 1/3 into Hells Trail the tight turns and shallow cuts had some quick running currents which challenged our aches and pains. Marker 80..75...40...30...the marker numbers dropped, the tide ran, water level dropped, we banged the bank on the curves, overshot turns, canoe started dragging bottom near marker 28.... ugh it was almost 4pm and we didn't feel like trying to walk in the muck.  Marker 10..9..8.. we were counting down like it was New Years Eve...marker 7...where's 6...where's 5...3..2..1  Yeah we made it! But 4.5 hours from Pearl Bay to the Road at Hells Trail, who whould have thought that?  Max yells, Showers at Flamingo!!Tired but used to moving gear we loaded the car in 10 minutes without realizing we did it. The showeres are not heated at the walk in camp sites, unlike the heated ones in the drive in sites. The cold shower was still a great way to clean up for the long drive back to West Palm.

 

Trip stats: 32 miles in 4 days, average speed 2.4 mph, 6 fish, half dozen flamingos and ospreys, 3 bald eagles, dolphin, low temp 38 reported by a passing canoeist, high temp low 70's, winds calm to 20+ mph, 8 canoeist and two flats boats.

Big thanks to the folks on this site who gave me tips on aerial maps, gps routes, which sites and launches to use, permits, food, water, famous 'canoe can', tiger balm patch, and the trial run to Craighead.  We have a great place that many folks don't have access to due to its remote location. Enjoy it, protect it and share it....and it will do the same for you.  

 

[toofaraway]

Fantastic!  Great trip.  I love the loops you can do from Flamingo.  Glad you got to do it with your son.  What great memories.  Coldest day of the year is a good time to hike the Rowdy Bend trail too!