Everglades Exploration Network

I’m planning my 3rd canoe tip to the everglades for October or November this year and I’m looking for some help to make this trip a success.

 

On my first trip I planned a 2 days round trip to Hells Bay Chickee and back thru Hells Bay Canoe Trail, I never made it to the Chickee; about half way thru the trail my canoe tipped and I lose a lot of my stuff. After an hour getting as much of my stuff as I could I decided that he will be better to turn back. I learned a lot about how to prepare for a tipping on that trip.

 

My second trip was a 2 days trip to Alligator Creek thru West Lake Canoe Trail and back the same way. Once again I did not finish this trip, this time it wasn’t due to a tipping. After a very bad night fighting the no-see-hum in a tent that my father landed me (those 10 years old tent where not made to stop this little bugs, good for mosquitoes but not for no-see-hum); I was exhausted and after 6 hours paddling I reached The Lungs, the passage from The Lungs to the next opening was impassable due to a lot of roots and fallen tree blocking the passage. After much deliberation I decided to return.

 

I learned a lot from those 2 trips, I also decided to get a new canoe much stable and to get physically in better shape; on the second trip I experienced extreme cramps and at one point couldn’t move or paddle.

 

So here are my questions; how do you deal when a narrow pass is obstructed by large branches or roots, do you get out of the boat, cut your way thru? I never tried getting out of my canoe afraid I will never be able to get back in or stuck in mud. What if you can’t get to your planned destination, can you look for flat land setup camp? Looking at Google Earth it looks like on the west side of the Lungs at about 200 feet from the pass you can see prairie land, will that be an option for a camp if the pass is blocked?

 

Jonathan Detullio

Hollywood Florida

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Jonathan, FBO is a dealer for Old Town and Wenonah. I bought my first solo canoe from them a Wenonah Vagabond. They have a put in behind their shop to try out boats. I waited for a windy day to go test the canoe out and brought some empty gallon water jugs to see how it handled with a load and wind. I filled them up with water there at the put in and set them in the canoe. Since each of these weigh 8lbs I simulated the load fore and aft of the seat that I usually carry on a 2 night trip.  They also let me rent it for half a day and the rental fee was refunded or deducted from the price I paid for the canoe.

 

I looked at the Rogue River and with these specs, it appears to be a slow and heavy canoe more for short trips and fishing or hunting:


• Length: 13'10"
• Beam width: 42"
• Weight: 76 lbs.

 

Look at something in the 14-16 foot range that is not as wide maybe 28-30 inches. If it feels tippy then lower the seat until you get comfortable with it. My canoe is 14 - 9  long and 27 inches wide it is very fast and feels effortless on the water even when loaded for a trip. At the end of a long paddle I am not tired at all. But have paddled wide and short boats in the past and was exhausted after only 10 miles. A well designed canoe or kayak and a lightweight paddle make all the difference in the world if you really want to explore the Everglades and plan long mileage days. If you can't afford new then look for used in good condition.  www.paddling.net classifieds has some good boats show up now and then or see if FBO has some used for sale.

 

What brand of canoe do you have Vivian?  That sounds like what I need. I like the words "effortless in the water."  My 10 foot fiberglass seems slow. I also come close to sinking it if Im not careful. Its too low in the water and I really need to constantly keep my balance. I sit low on a cushion.

The other day I called Florida Bay Outfitters and this is the 2 used models they have left.

A 2008 Mad River Explorer 16 for $395.00 and a 2010 Mad River Journey 167 for $575.00.

Right now I’m really thinking about getting the Explorer, I should be heading down to the keys this Saturday so I can try them out.

Dale, I have a Hemlock Kestrel in the premium layup. Weighs about 29 lbs.  They make a bigger model for heavier gear load it is the Hemlock Peregrine.  Keep in mind these are solo canoes NOT tandem models. Can be paddled with a canoe paddle or kayak paddle used sitting or kneeling. Keep in mind that a fully loaded canoe is more stable than one that is empty of gear.

Bill.... 

I would be really interested in knowing what waterproof bags you got for use of flotation in your canoe..and...how you tie them down in your canoe!  I have a tandem that I paddle solo a lot and know that it's exhausting to right it and get the water out.  I would love for it to float higher in the water if tipped.  Would you happen to have any pictures to share?

Thanks! 

Jonathan

(Cape Coral) 

You can use a lashing system and dedicated floatation bags that essentially cage them in.  You can also lash in your gear. Dry bags are a good idea and provided floatation even if things are in them. I use a blue barrel for food.  The displacement of water will happen only if the bags cannot float.  An alternative is to secure them to the floor with D rings glued in.

I am one of those who paddles a solo canoe too. Mine is a step up from Vivians at 36 lbs. A  Curtis Nomad. I have also used a 23 lb RapidFire which is skinny and faster than some kayaks were it not sunk so low in the water by the water that we need to carry.

Whatever you pick  standing in your boat is a skill that is valuable to get onto chickees.

Kim

I can see now that I forgot to mention that I forgot to mention that my canoe(s) are Kevlar and one a carbon/Kevlar mix.  Do you or someone on this forum know how to attach lashings or d-rings to these?  I have been looking for this answer but have yet to find it.   Do you lash in your food barrel, if so, how?

There are quite a few Jonathans in here... I'm from Cape Coral, Fl. 

My apologies to Jonathan Detullio... I mistakenly hijacked this thread I think... trying to send only Bill a message. 

Pad eyes attached to the under side of gunwales. Then lace in bags or biner them to the lacing if you are using many little bags. My rescue system is different. I use a full cover and a double paddle and a paddle float and a sling and a kayak pump.. Google Sea Kayak stirrup rescue.its the same.

So far I have not gone over. My biggest fear is not having a boat full of water but being stuck in the mud literally.

Sorry if I got my Jonathans mixed up!

Kim....  Are you talking about the plastic type padeyes or are you talking about metal ones?  Or would it matter?  I have both solo and tandem that I would like to set up with someway of tying in flotation.  I have a Nova Craft Pal as well as a Hemlock Peregrine..The Pal is Kevlar and the Peregrine is Carbon/Kevlar...neither would I feel very comfortable with drilling into the hull for padeyes..not sure there is enough wood in the gunwales to screw into on the Peregrine to attach padeyes securely. I'm familiar with the stirrup...been there done that in that past.  No problem with mixing up the jonathans...perhaps I should change my name..lol. 

Jonathan I think you're on the right track with the shorter trips.  Since you live so close you're in a great position to use Flamingo as a base and exploring from there.

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