Inland Route - Flamingo / Cape Sable

[Terry]

Inland Route - Flamingo / Cape Sable

Before Hurricane Andrew the preferred paddle route between Flamingo and
Cape Sable was the Homestead Canal. Avoiding the open bay provided a
wind protected route and separated paddle craft from power boats. It also
guaranteed solitude and remoteness by staying in the back country wilderness.
The 1992 hurricane damaged Homestead Canal with downed trees making passage
very difficult. As it became less traveled, foliage growth accelerated and
the 2005 storms made the canal impassable. After Hurricane Wilma a plan was
created to reopen the canal and a volunteer group headed by Tom Rahill and
Jim Brack took on the project. They cleared the canal to Bear Lake and
reopened the Bear Lake Trail which loops through Mud Lake and comes back
down Buttonwood Canal to the Bear Lake parking lot. The section of
Homestead Canal between Bear Lake and Gator Lake remained impassable,
cutting off the inland route to Cape Sable.

Sue Cocking, Bill Evans, Terry Helmers and Jay Thomas devised a plan to
survey the damage to the canal west of Bear Lake and search for an alternative
passage through a body of land between the waters of Bear Lake to the east
and open water to the west. Previous trips by Thomas had identified
the narrowest section of land between these two waters which was called 64M
but there was another slightly wider area of land that warranted
investigation. If a navigable route could be established through these two
bodies of water the entire stretch of Homestead Canal between West Lake and
Gator Lake could be abandoned. It would also establish a natural route from
Coot Bay Pond to Cape Sable - the ultimate trophy. The group also had heard
reports of a route that went into Bear Lake with a portage over the narrowest
piece of land between the canal and the lake.

On 18 January 2014 the four set out in 3 canoes from Bear Lake parking lot
and went directly to the narrow area between the lake and canal. The last
time Helmers had paddled the canal was 28 years ago when there was nothing
at this narrow spot. This time, the explorers found ruins of what appeared
to be a dock that could have been built to assist portaging. It's assumed
that shortly after Hurricane Andrew an attempt was made to keep the
Inland Route open by using as much of the lake as possible to shorten the
length traveled in the canal. Today there's a small break in the narrow spot,
making it easier to slide a canoe through this slot and back into the canal.
After doing this, the group continued west through near impassable
"jack straws" (a sawyer term for criss-cross piled trees) but after making
headway of only a couple hundred yards in an hour the effort was abandoned
and the canoe party returned to the lake to continue west in Bear Lake and
then across the lake to its' west. Since Thomas had already examined the
narrowest portion of land barrier between the east and west the decision was
made to continue directly to the other narrow spot just south of 64M. After
negotiating mud bars a small creek-like opening was spotted. Although there
was a 3 foot mat of pneumatophore roots to be portaged, the creek continued
west with a hard twist to the north then west again to the open water of the
"other side". After the search party spooked a spoonbill at the west mouth
of the creek it was quickly dubbed Spoonbill Pass. Knowing "this was it" all
agreed to ignore 64M and paddle the shallow but open water to Gator Lake.
How ironic that paddlers spent decades paddling back and forth in a straight
as an arrow canal, how ironic that a large dock was built to go over the
narrow spot between Bear Lake and the canal, how ironic spending the effort to
keep trying to push through the canal between Bear Lake and Gator Lake when
there was a beautiful natural creek waiting for paddlers at Spoonbill Pass.

On 20 January 2014 Terry Helmers launched at Coot Bay Pond to
specifically survey and map the Spoonbill Pass area. Although launching at the
pond meant it took 2 and a half hours to get to the pass, it reduced the
paddle distance in the canal to just 200 yards between Bear Lake Trail and
Bear Lake. Two additional non-portage creeks were mapped with the optimal
route going from 09.858'N and 59.397'W to 09.857'N and 59.447'W. After two
rewarding explorations, a natural route from Coot Bay Pond to Lake Ingraham,
Cape Sable has been established.

To use the Inland Route, study and printout or download maps of the area.
Carry a spare GPS unit. There's a lot of shallow water throughout the trip
but it's all open paddling.

[Dallas]

+1!

Miami101 said:

oh yea I have the KMZ files if anyone wants them.....

[Miami101]

Folks once again sorry for coming down on people, or sounding upset. I guess it not a good idea to write on you talk some times, or try to be funny. For those that know I take lots of people out to the Glades almost twice a month on Hikes, Yaking etc. I help everyone I know do it safe, and always share information.

I did send my information over to Yakmaster, and Vivian Oliva. Hey Dale you best go mark those trails again at the turn of Gator Hook! lol

[Dallas]

OK, thanks anyways. It's the thought that counts.

Dallas said:

+1!

Miami101 said:

oh yea I have the KMZ files if anyone wants them.....

[toofaraway]

I'm torn on the publicity...

It's been open for years apparently and at one of the two obvious points. More paddlers will be using it. Maybe that's good, maybe it will not be. Let's hope most people are content to be armchair enthusiasts.

I am stoked on the route and good energy on this site for sure. I do agree with Miami 101 about not naming things so clearly. That and maps are best done by Messaging and email.

There are many people who want parts of the park completely off limits. This route and definitely Lost Cartilage will be on the radar of park officials. Be mindful what you post and I can't believe someone brought a Herald reporter ( yes she's awesome but that's beside the point). Now I'm ranting, sorry. Please be mindful what you want the world to see.
TFA

[vivian]

I agree with yakmaster, on trips I have been on with this group where a reporter wrote the story were not your ordinary treks through the park. Most people will stay on the trails. In any NMZ where fishing is involved, I don't know many paddle fishermen that would venture more than 3 miles each way to paddle fish. There are a few, myself included but not enough to be a problem.

The east cape route needs to be open and must be an available alternative to paddlers trying to get to the cape. This past vacation our plan was to round the cape coming up and looping back to flamingo. The strong 20-25 knot winds and low tide phases had us re route through hells bay. Promoting paddling should involve offering alternative safe, wind protected routes to the campsites. I have several ways around the brochure trail that are my wind routes. People visiting don't have the knowledge of finding these easily. The east cape route via the bear lake route should be a park priority to establish.

[Esther Luft]

Geez, stop the whining.  No, I am not referring to free speech and posting opinions.  Right, wrong, or indifferent, we all have them.  Just stop the crying and finger pointing.  Of course I'm certain there will some scalding response.

No doubt this is not a new trail.  It's actually quite an old trail.  Terry himself speaks of having taken this path many moons ago.  Yes, inland trail has been done many times since the Bear Lake Canal was re-opened.  Before that it was tough crossing into Bear Lake.  Tom Rahill has likely done it more than any of us.  I did it several times with him.  Including a one way from Cape Sable to Bear Lake Canal.  One of the rangers dropped us off at the plug as construction was underway.  We took a park GPS to record the trail.  That was on 10/2/2010.  That was not the first trip through, nor the last.

There are section on which the water gets skinny, muddy, soupy (hence the soupdoodle nickname).  Connections, nonetheless, are several.  The now referenced Spoonbill Pass, a nice non derogatory term, is the clearest route I used.  

Gator Lake is beautiful.  I encountered more wildlife in that area, and in the prairie, than I have in any other section of the park.  This has more to do with the abundance of water flow, land, and flora.  What a great mix.  There are some wonderful spots to set a hammock, and some dry land too.

No, we did not make it openly public.  In part for reasons mentioned by TFA, in part because of pressure from some parks people to eliminate all activity in the area.  It is a very viable route.  However, keep in mind that park changes take time.  Even correcting printed materials can take years.  I recently saw a publication in which Carl Ross Key was shown as open for camping.  We know better.  Oh, better yet, NatGeo published Shark Point Chickee before it was built.  It also never removed Kingston Chickee which was destroyed about 10-12 years ago.  Ask a ranger and you'll get mixed answers.  I asked how the water level to Gator Lake looked and was told it was impassable.  I said, really, I was there three weeks ago.  The tune changed quickly.  It was still good. 

I also paddled a portion of the Homestead Canal, from the bend, east, about 1/2 to 3/4 miles.  That was once on the 10/2/10 paddle with Tom and Kent.  Bob Quirk was back there too, just as a by the way.  It was full limbo and mangrove slotting.  Little Fox Lake is nearby.  Almost made it but we were running out of daylight.  That would be a great spot to reach.  Tom may already have accomplished this, he was poking around back there some years back.  The difference is how one reaches a remote area.  You can do it without being destructive.  Unfortunately, some people lack self-control.

Now there's an idea for a relatively new connection/reconnection, South Joe to Fox Lakes, all of them, then to Raulerson (aka Soupdoodle) and back to Bear Lake.  It's thick back there :(  I doubt it can be done but... 

So, what is it was done before.  Yes, many route options, Sponbill is clearest route.  Yes, do it in the daylight, no clear markers in the dark and the entrance to Bear Lake can rip the bottom off your boat.  This is much safer than the outside route with bad conditions.  Kudos to Terry and the crew for memorializing the route. Yes, this is a difficult paddle not to be taken lightly. Unless guided, few would attempt this path. This route will likely never make the park brochure.  Too bad, it is a very old and traveled trail.  Enjoy your park and your adventures.  Some photos of Gator Lake, Homestead Canal (including a not soooo old marker on PVC), look at the trail behind the marker.  Very clear, right?  I'll look for the routes.  The files are there somewhere.  Even though you don't need it anymore.

[Kim Gass]

I am wondering just when the ENP ceased to be for the people of America and only for those "in the know". I understand the phenomenom of ownership by proximity.. but for routes only to be for a select few is really  out of line given its a National Park.

An inside passage from Flamingo to East Cape is really a good idea safety wise. How would you feel if you found out in bad weather someone perished because the information was kept secret?  Sometimes its not about your special fishing spots so look at the bigger picture.

You want my money..but stay and paddle where its for the tourists.. Sheesh. Some of you must have Ozark relatives.. Seems they feel a National Scenic river is all for them too. There is a big brouhaha on the future management for the Ozark National Scenic River. The local hunting and horse and gigging crowd wants its way with the river and paddlers..stay out.

[Juan Estevez]

I get your point Kim but I believe the concern is that some people might try these routes without proper knowledge and tools (GPS, compass, charts...) just because they read it online and saw the post of how great the paddle of the fishing was. I posted an article of some guys getting lost in an area that is almost impossible to get lost. Myself I have made the wrong turn a few times but I know how to get back on the intended route (so far!).

Kim Gass said:

I am wondering just when the ENP ceased to be for the people of America and only for those "in the know". I understand the phenomenom of ownership by proximity.. but for routes only to be for a select few is really  out of line given its a National Park.

An inside passage from Flamingo to East Cape is really a good idea safety wise. How would you feel if you found out in bad weather someone perished because the information was kept secret?  Sometimes its not about your special fishing spots so look at the bigger picture.

You want my money..but stay and paddle where its for the tourists.. Sheesh. Some of you must have Ozark relatives.. Seems they feel a National Scenic river is all for them too. There is a big brouhaha on the future management for the Ozark National Scenic River. The local hunting and horse and gigging crowd wants its way with the river and paddlers..stay out.

[Connie Mier]

So Esther, you're in the good ol boys club! LOL

[Connie Mier]

I agree with Kim, but with the caveat that local knowledge occurs everywhere and so it goes. Juan, people do get lost just about anywhere in this park and navigating through some parts without GPS is next to impossible if one is not prepared with a satellite image or proper charts and compass.

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Juan Estevez said:

I get your point Kim but I believe the concern is that some people might try these routes without proper knowledge and tools (GPS, compass, charts...) just because they read it online and saw the post of how great the paddle of the fishing was. I posted an article of some guys getting lost in an area that is almost impossible to get lost. Myself I have made the wrong turn a few times but I know how to get back on the intended route (so far!).

Kim Gass said:

I am wondering just when the ENP ceased to be for the people of America and only for those "in the know". I understand the phenomenom of ownership by proximity.. but for routes only to be for a select few is really  out of line given its a National Park.

An inside passage from Flamingo to East Cape is really a good idea safety wise. How would you feel if you found out in bad weather someone perished because the information was kept secret?  Sometimes its not about your special fishing spots so look at the bigger picture.

You want my money..but stay and paddle where its for the tourists.. Sheesh. Some of you must have Ozark relatives.. Seems they feel a National Scenic river is all for them too. There is a big brouhaha on the future management for the Ozark National Scenic River. The local hunting and horse and gigging crowd wants its way with the river and paddlers..stay out.

[Amazon Bill]

Naysayers, Read the Welcome Page....."This is also a place for those who, like myself (the website creator) have gone beyond the boundaries of the Park roads, trails and established campsites, and who have explored the Everglades backcountry as few others have since the creation of Everglades National Park more than 60 years ago. " This is not a tour with fruity umbrellas in your Mytie drink. 

[Esther Luft]

I guess so.  However, I never did get a formal invitation. 

By the way, it wasn't a secret, just not "officially" circulated.  Whatever that means.  I've been taking club people out that way for years.  Some very green, others more experienced.  Didn't lose anyone. 

Connie Mier said:

So Esther, you're in the good ol boys club! LOL